Miscellaneous Monday

The shirt has passed the comfort test, but I think I want to make it a tad longer so that I can tuck it into a skirt if I need to when wearing a jacket that is shorter... I do dislike shirts poking out the bottom of jackets. It seems acceptable now for this to happen, but its just not my style.

Sharon, in response to your question about back fitting, though I am no expert, I think my back alterations probably are for a wide back. I actually follow the instructions for a round back, but a moderate one, opening the back on the horizontal but not on the vertical. I cut a line across the back from CB to almost the armhole then spread the CB end half an inch, this forms a wedge that tapers to nothing at the armhole and also makes the back seam curve a bit. The actual alteration doesn't show in the photo I have attached because it was done on the original tissue version and I've retraced the pieces since then. However, some of the curve you see on the upper back seam is caused by that alteration. On my figure, the alteration is done six and a half inches below nape of neck because that happens to be the point where the bones of my shoulder blades poke out the most when I reach forward.

I have actually increased the curvature on the seam beyond that given by the round back alteration to give me more reach room. The extra bit of tissue you can see is where I added room on the back seam almost all the way down after I had realised the shirt was overfitted. The dart lines in blue are the new sewing lines. Straightening the upper half of the dart decreased the size of the dart and increased the amount of circumference room I had between my lower ribs and my waist and means the shirt now moves naturally back into place after I reach forward, instead of staying stuck to my ribs as it did before I relaxed the fit. I realise the back seam makes me look like Quasimodo, but the curve looks worse because above the reach room alteration there is a dart out of the seam to take out three quarters of an inch from the back neck to fit a thin neck. I am putting these oddly shaped seams into all my shirt and jacket patterns now because I haven't found a more effective way to handle the problem. I must admit that I don't get a perfectly smooth back fit. I have some minor wrinkles over the shoulder blade area when my arms are relaxed at my sides but I do need that extra fabric when I reach forwards. It is not obvious, or at least I hope it isn't, that the seam is quite so curved when the item is actually completed and worn.

I am having a bit of a jacket crisis today. Up until yesterday I was all sorted to start my Marfy jacket, fabric and lining purchased, buttons found, interfacing chosen. But now, I am feeling a bit unsure whether to proceed. I know the jacket will look wonderful in the fabric, but I've not seen anything in a similar style of fabric in the shops, not even in the more expensive stores. So, tomorrow I am going snoop shopping to see if I can determine whether this jacket will look cool, expensive, original and hip, or dowdy and old-fashioned. I will also take the opportunity to scour the stores for my new obsession... belts. My wardrobe is pretty much sorted so, I am taking the opportunity to add to my belt and accessory collection. My necklace collection is woefully inadequate though increased quite a lot on Saturday when I went mad and got three necklaces (one with earrings to match, one with a bracelet to match). My belt collection is a reasonable size but as far as I can see, a girl can never have too many belts. I love 'em, and the wider and sparklier the better. A purple jeans belt joined the collection at the weekend and I am currently on the hunt for belts in bright green, teal and silver grey suede (and any other colour that happens to leap into my hands really).