Sunday, July 26, 2009

Spoke too soon

I ought to know better than to pronounce that I have almost fitted something. I got up this morning, looked at the jacket with a fresh eye, and realised that the problem wasn't in the princess seam after all. The jacket had been sitting on Twiggy the dressform overnight and when I went in to start work on it, noticed that the jacket was drooping very badly at the centre front and it was obvious that it needed length out of the upper chest area; an alteration I frequently have to make on Big Four patterns, and BWOF, but haven't yet had to make in Marfy. I pinned out a scarily large amount of fabric at the lapel, tapering to nothing at the armhole to fix the drooping front and was pleased to see that the lapel itself wasn't too badly affected by the alteration and could be smoothed out quite easily in the tissue using the french curve.
I also had excess fabric at the side seams, and ended up removing the seam allowance width at the front. At the back I had to take a bit more than the seam allowance at the hem and taper to the seam allowance amount at the waistline seam. This is consistent with alterations in Marfy skirts and trousers. I think the patterns are drafted for quite a curvy rear end. The pinning out on the muslin took ten minutes. The tissue alteration and recutting and remaking the muslin bodice took the rest of the day. So I still don't have a jacket muslin to show because it still has no sleeves. Since I took so much out of the side seams, I suspect I will have to alter the sleeves and need to flat measure them to see if I can realistically take the seam allowance off the underarm seam without making the sleeves too narrow. And of course once the sleeves go in, the whole jacket fit might change.

I did take a break from altering tissue this morning to go through my fabric stash looking for fabric for this jacket and found a really nice cream, black, grey and burgundy wool fabric that looks as though it will be perfect.

1 comment:

SewRuthie said...

Yeah I need that upper chest alteration too, I wonder why?

The wool sounds luscious!!