Pattern Sizes

Reading a comment from Sharon, I realised that I hadn’t really considered the pattern size when I’d looked at the Burda preview and pronounced my love for various patterns. How silly of me since I should know by now that if its in Burda, and I like it, it won’t be my size. Sure enough, most aren’t. The dress and blouse start at a 36. The skinny jeans are a petite sizing, one of the jackets starts at a 38. But at least the skirt is a 34.

I know how to alter both skirts and trousers downward, my particular issue is always with tops and dresses (actually, my biggest issues with any pattern brand relate to these items). Tops and dresses are much more difficult to alter; so many variables to consider for most of us, so when I saw that only one garment on my list is my size, and it’s a skirt, I was annoyed. And I remembered why I gave up getting this magazine every month. There are very few patterns in a small size anyway, but those that are, tend to be looser fitting, with fewer shaping seam lines to provide curves or the illusion of them. I’ve looked through the magazines over and over again and noticed that the garments appear to be pretty much based on a very limited number of blocks and as far as I can see they either don’t have, or don’t use very often, a size 34 block for princess seamed or waist darted jackets and tops, wrap dresses, sheath dresses, fitted dresses, fitted coats or trenchcoats. All styles that flatter those with a smaller waist and neat figure (yes, they flatter other shapes too, but should we not all have equal access to styles no matter what our size?)

So the very shaped jackets and blouses which always appeal to me all seem to start at a size 36 or 38, necessitating a lot of trial and error attempts at sizing them downward… attempts that have yet to yield a reliable list of the alterations required to make these patterns fit me though I’ve certainly made quite a few garments from the magazines, and noted down the alterations, and then the re-alterations.. and the re-re-alterations. You get the picture. There is something about the BWOF tops that causes me real problems. I cannot get the upper bodice to fit, no matter what I try. However, I have learned a lot about fitting my figure from a course I took on Pattern Review at the end of last year, and from my experiments with Marfy patterns this year, so I will have another go at the BWOF to see if I can make the tops work for me by applying what I have learned, doing a bit of tissue comparison and a bit of flat measuring, and see where I get to.

The silly thing is, the BWOF 36 is theoretically nearer to my measurements than the Marfy size 42 that I use as my starting size.. yet the Marfy is less difficult to alter, despite being bigger. Maybe I will try and find a Marfy that is altered and works well, and lay it on a BWOF 36 to see if I can work out where the problems are with the BWOF. Though I find comparing tissue pieces really difficult and I’ve come to grief countless times with flat measuring, I will have another go. So, garment sewing for the next month or more will most likely be muslins for Marfy jackets and various BWOF items.
But this time, if it all goes wrong, I won’t buy Burda again. Because its just a waste of fabric having it go from stash cupboard to bin via Frustration Central, and sometimes, you just have to say STOP. There is no shortage of patterns out there that I would love to try, and no shortage of patterns in my stash that haven’t had their moment of glory.