I just finished the canvas for the black wool jacket this evening and I am hoping I did it right. I couldn't exactly recall how much of the canvas was to be left in the seam allowances so I've left lots as it can be cut off, but can't be attached back on again.
This is one of the pieces, on the canvas waiting to be cut out. As you can see, the pattern piece is placed “on the squiff”, that is, not on the bias, not on the grain. I decided to make a pattern piece in tissue for the canvas parts because I am hoping the jacket can then be made several times and it will save time if I don’t have to draft the canvas pieces every time. I was supposed to take the canvas with me on Monday but misunderstood my instructions, and left it behind when I went to see the tutor. I could have kicked myself since it would have been easier to have had help with the first part, mainly so that I felt confident with the placement of the dart in the canvas.
This is one of the pieces, on the canvas waiting to be cut out. As you can see, the pattern piece is placed “on the squiff”, that is, not on the bias, not on the grain. I decided to make a pattern piece in tissue for the canvas parts because I am hoping the jacket can then be made several times and it will save time if I don’t have to draft the canvas pieces every time. I was supposed to take the canvas with me on Monday but misunderstood my instructions, and left it behind when I went to see the tutor. I could have kicked myself since it would have been easier to have had help with the first part, mainly so that I felt confident with the placement of the dart in the canvas.
Here are a couple of pictures of the jacket on Twiggy.
Its really difficult to see just how it fits from these photos, given the large seam allowances, black fabric, and lack of underpinnings of any kind. However, I am very pleased with it. The waist belt section is only muslin at the moment, and does stand out rather. The final waist belt will be backed with canvas so that it can’t collapse into wrinkles at the waist. The jacket is tacked together by hand, then flat tacked as explained last week. I’ve thread traced the button holes and the break line but the position of both may well change. The only alteration I had to make following Monday’s rough fitting was to take in the neckline at the back by three quarters of an inch and this is a common alteration for me.
I am practicing my flat measuring skills on a different Marfy jacket (1444) this week and was pleased to find that I was able to repeat most of my alterations for the back on this second jacket, without too much trouble. The front will be a slightly different tale as its not a princess seam and in fact has a very unusual dart type shaping device into which the pocket is inserted. I am still puzzling my way through that at the moment but its not all that urgent as I don’t have fabric for it.
Meanwhile, I’ve given up (temporarily) on the Marfy jeans and started on a pair of the Jalie 2908 jeans which has so many positive reviews on Pattern Review. I got those cut out last night but am putting off starting on them as I am fully expecting to have to do multiple alterations for fit and I find jeans particularly difficult to fit. I am not entirely sure that keeping trying new patterns in the hope of getting a good fit is such a sensible plan, but the Marfy ones were annoying me so much I couldn’t bear the sight of them a moment longer.
And finally, I might disappear from the blog suddenly at some point. My laptop has some kind of intermittent fault on it and I suspect its on its last legs. It keeps shutting down on me with no warning whatsoever. So if I go silent it is likely due to the death of my IT. I hate buying anything electrical, especially computers, and it is taking me a while to psych myself up to run the gauntlet of the IT store. I know I have to do it, but I'm putting it off as long as possible.
I am practicing my flat measuring skills on a different Marfy jacket (1444) this week and was pleased to find that I was able to repeat most of my alterations for the back on this second jacket, without too much trouble. The front will be a slightly different tale as its not a princess seam and in fact has a very unusual dart type shaping device into which the pocket is inserted. I am still puzzling my way through that at the moment but its not all that urgent as I don’t have fabric for it.
Meanwhile, I’ve given up (temporarily) on the Marfy jeans and started on a pair of the Jalie 2908 jeans which has so many positive reviews on Pattern Review. I got those cut out last night but am putting off starting on them as I am fully expecting to have to do multiple alterations for fit and I find jeans particularly difficult to fit. I am not entirely sure that keeping trying new patterns in the hope of getting a good fit is such a sensible plan, but the Marfy ones were annoying me so much I couldn’t bear the sight of them a moment longer.
And finally, I might disappear from the blog suddenly at some point. My laptop has some kind of intermittent fault on it and I suspect its on its last legs. It keeps shutting down on me with no warning whatsoever. So if I go silent it is likely due to the death of my IT. I hate buying anything electrical, especially computers, and it is taking me a while to psych myself up to run the gauntlet of the IT store. I know I have to do it, but I'm putting it off as long as possible.
1 comment:
Fascinating about the canvas being on the squiff, I have never heard of doing that! Sorry to hear about the laptop though :-(
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