Saturday, January 26, 2013

Marfy Cowl Top

This is another variation on the 2904 Marfy Cowl top which I previously made in cream and brown zebra print slinky.  I found the sleeves on the zebra version  a bit too large for my small frame so I pinned out some fullness, whizzed up the sleeves/side seams, and created a much less voluminous silhouette.  I wore it with a great deal more enthusiasm and considerably greater comfort after that and received compliments on it so decided I'd make another one. 

 This version is made from a remnant from Abhakan Fabrics.  I think its a cotton/poly blend or perhaps its all cotton.  Its a waffle weave and has very little stretch in it.  Its been hiding in my stash for a couple or years or so.  I didn't have enough fabric to make the immense collar, so I cut the body parts first then took a tuck from the centre of the collar pattern so that it juuuust fitted on my remaining fabric, giving me the tallest collar I could manage to squeeze out.  As it turned out, I think if the collar had been any taller it wouldn't have worked as well.

Sewing order was as follows:
Attach sleeve one to front.
Attach sleeve one to back.
Attach sleeve two to back.
Attach sleeve two to front. (its a raglan)
Sew back collar seam.
Fold collar in half, quarter with pins to mark.
Fold neckline in quarters, with pins to mark.
Attach collar to sweater.
Sew up side seams and sleeve seams in one pass on each side.

I didn't have enough fabric to get a tunic length top out so I cut the top to the length I could manage.  It ends at high hip (quite high on said high hip).  Had I put a standard hem on it, would have looked a little mean so I put two and a half inch deep ribbing on the bottom and the same width ribbed cuffs on the sleeves.  I followed the proportions given in Connie Long's book "Sewing with Knits" when deciding on the length of ribbing to cut.  The hem ribbing was 26 inches for a 34 inch hip.  I did the cuffs a little bigger than necessary for my wrists because I regularly ruin tighter cuff ribbings by pushing my sleeves right up my arms when cleaning or washing up. 

All seams were sewn on the overlocker, and the ribbing was attached that way too.

I had been a bit concerned that the fabric's lack of stretch would make the top a bit small but actually I'm extremely pleased with it.  It has a sleek fit that I like and the side seams have the fabulously understated, almost invisible until worn, side seam shaping that gives me a shape even in a top as comparatively straight as this one.

The collar sits reasonably well, even though the fabric is a bit heavier than I think the pattern was designed for. 

Overall, I'm rather pleased with this and I think this will become a "go to" pattern for me.  Unfortunately, with all the snow and cold weather, this version is a little thin for the current weather, but another couple of months and I don't think I'll have it off my back.  A smarter look with jeans than a traditional sweatshirt would be, but still casual enough for weekend wear. 


I also cut out two tops and a vest; all from the same piece of fabric.  I dread to think how much of this fabric I bought originally.  It had already yielded a Simplicity draped cardigan and its matching scoop neck top on a previous occasion.  Sewing down the stash isn't going to go very fast if I continue to squeeze multiple garments out of every piece of fabric, but I don't like wasting fabric.

2 comments:

becki-c said...

I love it, it looks downright cozy to me. I like the color, it will look perfect with jeans.

SewRuthie said...

Oooh nice!!!!