Tailoring Course - Week One

Oh wow. Today was the first day of my tailoring course and I came home feeling completely stuffed with information yet I probably only noted down about one hundredth of it. The tutor was absolutely amazing with such a wide range of sewing experience from tailoring to theatre work, wedding gowns to uniforms and period dress.
There was only two of us in the class today. The class total varies from 1 through 5 students depending on when people can make it. The class is taught every week but it pretty much a case of going every other week as apparently you get a LOT of homework. Today was measuring and discussion of alterations as well as a run through of the various tailoring canvases we will be using and a review of the patterns we had chosen to make. My pattern was used to demostrate flat pattern measuring, and the method for folding out areas that are too large on a pattern. For the first time I could suddenly see where to begin this task. So my self imposed homework is to flat measure some other patterns for practice and to test some of the alteration ideas she gave us. It wasn't all me, me, me. I came away with some ideas to help mum fit her particular figure challenges which I am keen to try and use to help her get a nicely fitted skirt, which is something she has been working on lately.

I had made a muslin of my jacket, and done some alterations which, when the tutor flat measured the pattern, turned out to be unnecessary. So my real homework this week is to alter the pattern according to her suggestions. The really, really scary part, for me at least, reliant as I am on muslins and lots of them... at the next class we will cut the pattern from the final fabric, with added seam allowances for what she refers to as "the cock up factor" and begin making our garments. No tissue fit, no muslins. Though I am told there will be plenty of fitting and a LOT of ripping out tacking stitches.

And talking of muslins and pattern alterations and ripping stitches... the trousers have been altered again... erm, several times. I have made a wool pair and I think they are much better, but not quite right yet. I have no photos of them as I haven't hemmed them yet or put the waistband button on and I need to get someone to take the photos outdoors in daylight which pretty much means at the weekend. But they are better than they were. I've taken one and a quarter inches out of the inseam at the crotch back tapering to nothing at the knee, which made a huge difference. Thanks to those who suggested this alteration. I've also taken half an inch off the Centre back at the top of the yoke as it seemed too long and an ugly wrinkle was sitting just under the waistband, and let the trousers out yet again at the side seams. I also found that the side seams of the pattern weren't absolutely straight. There was a weird section that sort of bowed inward then out again so I straightened that out and immediately the pieces did look better. The trousers do still seem to have an annoying wrinkle in the back though as far as I can see, this is only on one leg and doesn't appear to be as extreme as it was before. However, until I can get someone to take a decent photo of the back I can't tell for certain.