Becki, I do have Pants for Real People and as far as I could tell from the diagrams, they suggested raising the pants at the back which would be my next stab at fixing these if it turns out not to be the grainline. I also have Leichty, Potberg and Rasband's Fitting and Pattern Alteration book which, because it only has diagrams and not photos, for some reason works better for me when diagnosing problems.
Peppermint Penguin, the trousers are at the natural waist, but I have a very long lower torso which gives the impression that they are high waisted. It does look a bit old fashioned, but I am really uncomfortable in lower waisted trousers and spend all day trying to hitch them up.
OK, these I don't need to ask you about. These are a disaster of epic proportions. But its only fair to post the bad with the good and I have a fair idea why they look the way they do, which is certainly the only good thing to come from this whole week of wasted work.
I am particularly gutted about this pair because they took me ages to do, the fly was utterly perfect, and this embellishment on the pockets took me three evenings to achieve because beading just isn't my strong point.
OK and now for my initial impression of what went wrong. See the photo below. I don't think that I was careful enough with my grain line markings. Oh, I was sure I had it right at the time, and I did line everything up carefully... but obviously not carefully enough. The heavy line is the new grain line which I have added. The lighter pencil line is the grain line I was originally working off. They are off by over five eighths of an inch. Now I am not entirely sure this was the cause of the problem, but am working on the basis that I should alter only one thing at a time to try and diagnose the problem, and the problem does appear confined to the back pieces in both cases. I've also altered the yoke piece slightly to take out some excess at the centre back. I am slightly hollow there, and Marfy drafts for a more curvy derriere than I possess, hence the excess fabric.
Of course I don't have enough fabric left to cut two new backs.
Because the grain line is off by so much, I can't recut the existing backs because I won't have even a scant seam allowance at the back crotch curve and in any case I clipped that sucker really well. It would be a recipe for a wardrobe malfunction.
I don't think I can cut new backs with a seam across the leg as it would look bad.
And I can't think of any other solution.
I reckon tonight will be spent de-beading, de-zipping and de-lining these ready for attempt three. I should be able to reuse all those items in future pairs because eventually I will bend this pattern to my will.
I don't have any fabric suited to making attempt three, having used up almost my whole suiting stash on my week of failed trousers. I only have really nice stuff left, and not enough of that to sacrifice any on the altar of "it might work". I think my local cheap fabric shop had some pin stripe poly mystery stuff in the sale that would be suitable for a "might work, might not work" garment but I can't get to the store until next weekend.
I do wonder about the wisdom of starting on a pair of jeans tomorrow, though the jinx has to break at some point, doesn't it?


8 comments:
Bummer! The front looks so good, but I agree there are some weird ripples on the back. Mind I've seen as bad or worse on people in the street, but I know that's not good enough for you.
I have some grey fabric I had put to one side for you I will send it you in the post for more attempts.
They need counselling they do.
Before I'd read the posts, just looking at the photos, I was thinking 'front looks good, back looks not great (fight one) back looks erm, well, bad (fight two). I agree with Ruthie I have seen worse on people in the street, but I also agree that isn't the answer you are looking for.
The back of the 2nd pair make you look like you have no bum at all! And they appear excessively high waisted. Definitely the back that is the problem. I wonder if that back is his mother? MILs they old scary kind ;-)
I'm sorry you have had a such a rotten result for your hard work. Such a shame you don't have fabric to cut new backs. Do you know how much yardage you would have needed for the whole experiment - thinking ahead to any future bargain suiting purchases?
Yay for a fab friend like Ruthie, I'll cross my fingers the posties hurry!!
Chin up - go knit a sock to cheer yourself up.
Cheers,
AJ
Do I doubt you will beat this pattern into submission? Not a chance, I'll bet on you against any pattern!!
I like the pockets! On both pairs.
Do you have the Fit For Real People Pants version? Email me your addy and I can send you a copy. It will suggest adjusting the side seams, or shortening the rear.
I think that for now you should step away from the project and make something comforting.
In the mean time, I can scan and email you some suggestions on adjusting for the back of those pants.
I am sure you will sort this out as those lines look familiar (but I don't know what they mean) but the Palmer Pletsch book will no doubt tell you. The roll on the back of the first fair just under the waistband can be fixed by taking off the waistband (just in that section) and pushing the fabric up. You then re attach the waistband and cut off excess fabric. Good luck!
It looks to me like taking in the inseam would help take some of that fullness out of the legs.
Or, FFRP would say take a vertical tuck down the pattern from the fullest point of the hips. See p. 31 or p.49
I was browsing my Fitting & Pattern Alteration (Liechty et al) and found that the inward knee rotation (p.194) has somewhat similar drag lines. I haven't been following your posts recently, so don't know if you have tried their alteration. I hope this helps.
Amazing, except for the back bubble, those are the same fitting lines I've been fighting with! What truly annoys me is that I have made several muslins, altering out every last wrinkle and drag line. When I transfer the changes to the pattern and cut, yet another pair, all the wrinkles are back! I'm now at the point of fixing only one issue at a time and I'm still working on fitting the waistband.
I had not thought about the grainline, because like you, I carefully measured, checked and rechecked. The gainline was right, unless the pattern was marked wrong. I will check for that too. Keep posting your progress. Maybe you'll solve my problems too!
Actually Jenni, look again at the front of the leg.
I've recently lost some weight and instead of starting over I "frankenpatterned" two different patterns together to make my purple pair early in December, and ended up with a pair that looks remarkably like these. Those same lines in the back (argh), and I noticed that on mine, the lower pant leg in front is doing exactly what yours is doing. It appears that it wants to twist a bit and there are drag lines going into the side seam around the calf and knee. (Actually, mine are tighter but that's because I put back a few of those lost pounds just before wearing the pants)
I honestly need to go back to muslin stage.
I'll be interested to see how you solve this.
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