Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Still messing around with bits of tissue paper

The trousers still aren’t fitting quite right which is frustrating. I can’t quite work out what is wrong and will take them to my class next week for a fit analysis. Meanwhile, they are on hold.

Since last week, I’ve spent rather a lot of my time flat measuring and carefully thinking through how to alter the jacket pattern for my tailoring course. Its still not completely altered as I keep getting stuck but I am sure I will get there. The tutor teaches an interesting method of altering the patterns; she flat measures, then pinches out the tissue in areas where the pattern needs taking in. I gather this allows her to use the same patterns over and over when fitting a variety of people, which is rather clever. Yesterday evening I managed to carry out the alteration to the armscye depth using the pinching method. It seemed to work quite well and meant the centre back and centre front lengths were not altered. I just have to puzzle out how to achieve the width alterations now and how much/where to alter the sleeves. I have pinned all the tucks out, rather than taping them, and have drawn any width alterations at seam lines in dotted lines for now, so that I can change things back easily if I haven’t quite understood the process correctly. It’s a very interesting method and one I am keen to practice to get faster (over a week to alter a pattern seems a little lengthy to me) so I am going to try it on several other patterns. So far I have stockpiled a Marfy top, and jacket, a BWOF coat, and dress and my most recent BWOF shirt pattern to try this with. The latter was added to the list first thing this morning. I put the blouse on to wear it for the first time and nearly stopped the circulation in my upper arms trying to reach down to put my tights on. Something is wrong with either the back width or the sleeves. I was so disappointed because it seemed to fit so well when I wore it for the review photos and the fabric was pretty and seemed like it would be warm to wear.

3 comments:

SewRuthie said...

That thing where the circulation in your arms stops is a bad thing I have to tell you and is why I don't wear purchased blouses anymore.
I agree as you have slim arms if that's happening something is not quite right.

Sharon said...

I also have that problem and am still trying to work it out. That's why I'm not making any woven tops with sleeves LOL.

Interesting pattern altering method, I haven't seen or heard of this before so I am interested to see how it works out.

becki-c said...

I have that problem with Marfy tops too! I just thought us Americans have fat arms! I add 1 1/2" to the width of the sleeves and take it out later if I have to. My last shirt fit very well without doing this because it had full sleeves (1895)