Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Another McCalls jacket

Same pattern, different look.

This time I had enough fabric to make a two sided collar.  As usual though, I failed to follow the directions of the pattern because I'm just a rebel.  Or, more accurately, my fabric is reversible so I figured I may as well make the jacket reversible too, so I had to deal with the seams differently.

It didn't work quite according to plan.  It turned out not to be possible to have a collar that was striped on one side and brown on the other as I had intended, so instead I have a solid brown jacket, which in reality is the side likely to be worn most often, and a striped jacket with a brown collar and cuffs. 


The seams were done on the striped side by cutting one seam allowance very short, folding the other seam allowance in and over it, and sewing it down by hand.  This was a bit time consuming, particularly the sleeve seams.  I had to let the sleeves out to a three eighths  seam allowance for fit.  And forgot to add the extra quarter inch on at the cutting stage, leaving me with a very narrow amount of seam allowance to fold under bearing in mind this is a very stable, and very beefy knit.  It was a very fiddly job and took about twice as long to do the sleeves as it did to do the rest of the jacket.  Rather than sew the doubled collar on with a seam that showed, I sewed the outer collar on by machine, trimmed the seam allowances and then turned in the facing seam allowance and sewed it down by hand.  So I got it accurate, I had previously tacked around the facing on the seam allowance, with a large machine stitch, following the correct seam allowance width, so I could just pin it into place reasonably quickly and accurately then sit on the sofa and sew it all up whilst watching a trashy film.  The sleeves were then inserted and sewn in, then the same seam treatment was done on the armhole seam, a bit fiddly to get it right and make it lie nicely, but perfectly doable.  The sleeves are only just long enough so a matching turned over edge finish worked just fine to finish the sleeve hems. 

This will be another possible item for my SWAP.   I have one more of these jackets to make, in a mushroom boiled wool and then I will decide whether both, or only one, jacket will go into the SWAP. 

I am loving the super fitted riding jacket type vibe on this one and I think I'll get a lot of wear from it. 

4 comments:

Ann said...

Very well done and it look great on both sides. Well worth the extra time and effort to get a nicely done reversible jacket. I still want to make the vest and, now the jacket for myself.

SewRuthie said...

Very clever indeed!!! Looks spiffy too. Good job.

Anne said...

It sounds tricky to do. Nice result!

Jane M said...

Very impressive to make this so nicely reversible.