Vogue 9959 again

This pattern is probably long out of print and has had so much use that it was falling apart so I've retraced it.  The original skirt pattern is very long and when I retraced this, I traced it the full length, then carefully measured down from the waist seam lines and marked in multiple hem lines on the tissue, at two inch intervals, corresponding to the lengths of skirt I might want to make.  I have 24 inches all the way down to 36 inches I think.  The lines include a one inch hem allowance.  Because the skirt is completely straight from the hip line, this has always worked well for me.  I just fold and pin the tissue in place along the line for the skirt length I want with little fuss and fiddling.   

Its a very quick skirt to make and only took about two evenings to cut and construct including the hand sewing part. It has a centre back seam, double darts in back and single darts in the front.  I've used a centred zipper application and sewed further away from the teeth than I normally would as I read somewhere that going too near the teeth in this application causes the zipper to peek out which is an issue I often encounter.

The waistband is one and a half inches wide, which is the standard width I normally use and I've put in a lining.  I didn't dart the lining, I just folded the dart legs together at the top and pinned them into a pleat, then inserted the lining into the skirt, and lined the pleats up with the darts.  The darts are quite small so this works very well... I always do this for this particular pattern and it has a positive impact on wearing comfort.  My skirt fabric has a slight stretch but my lining has none so the pleats allow a bit of give to match the outer and all feels lovely when worn.  

Fabric is a Rayon Poly Lycra suiting from Rosenberg's fabrics and is the same fabric as the trousers I recently made.  The fabric did shrink a bit when pre-washed and  I lost about two centimetres per metre in length but I am hoping it won't shrink progressively and plan to wash the skirt and trousers on cold wash to minimise any risk of that.  I've enough fabric left to make a second skirt and trousers but won't do that until I see if the fabric behaves well.