Style Arc Ziggi Jacket - at long last

This jacket has been at the top of my to do list for months.  I've been desperate to get to it but on the other hand, I need to be in the right frame of mind for scary projects.  And this one is a scary project since it includes not one but five zips, top stitching and a bagged lining.  However, there are some very helpful tutorials online, chiefly those by SewMaris and StacySews which they put up as part of a sewalong they co-hosted for this pattern.  I will be relying very much on their tutorials and information, and reading up on zipper insertion on line and in books in the hope of turning out a vaguely acceptable garment. 

I was really pleased to find that I had enough of this fabulous wool melton to get the jacket out with a  little to spare for stitch tests and so forth.  There is only a metre and a half, and the pattern says you need two metres, but I didn't have too much trouble getting my size 6 version from the 1.5 metres.  On the right of the photo the lining is shown.  Isn't that a great match?  I found it in the stash, hiding at the bottom of the pile.  The thread is black and thicker than normal.  I think its upholstery thread rather than jeans thread and it will, at a pinch, work as both bobbin and top thread, if you wind it on the bobbin by hand.    This will be used for topstitching because I could only get zippers with black tapes and black top stitching should bring everything together in a deliberate looking manner.  Getting matching zippers was a bit of a problem.  In the end, I had to buy a front zipper that was eight inches longer than I needed because they didn't have the right length, and the four shorter zips for the sleeves and pockets had to be locking not normal pulls for the same reason.  But at least I was able to find a full set of black tapes and brass teeth so I counted myself lucky.... until I got to the till and found that my zippers cost more than the fabric.  Eeek. 

So, the pattern was traced about three weeks ago and I cut the jacket out two weeks ago.  (I'm behind on the blog again, sorry).   I'm making the quilted yoke and top sleeve, so I spent most of Saturday afternoon making a quilted piece of fabric.  I had a piece of fabric left after I'd cut the main pieces which measured about 10 inches by the width of the fabric, and cut a lump off that which fit the pieces plus a large overlap to allow for any shrinking up due to the quilting.  Drew lines down it with chalk and used repositionable spray adhesive to stick the fabric to a left over piece of quilt wadding.  It worked really well.  I quilted it with the walking foot on the machine so nothing shifted and used a 3.5 stitch length and the thick thread you see in the photo.  The stitching lines are one inch apart and at 45 degrees to the grain line.  I cut my pieces out of the larger quilted whole and think/hope/tried to line up the stitching at the shoulder point to flow across the two pieces, though if it doesn't it won't matter too much as I don't think the stitching normally does that on these jackets. 
Sunday was spent cutting out the lining, marking the pieces and fusing the interfacing to the collar pieces.  I've also cut the undercollar slightly smaller to account for the turn of cloth... or I hope it will account for it anyway.