Sunday, April 1, 2012

Silk Shell top - SWAP Item 11.


Here is the final item for the SWAP, a shell top from the same pink silk as the tie neck blouse. The pattern is Simplicity 2603, which contains a top and cardi-wrap and is designed for stretch knits only. I made the top, and its associated wrap, from non-stretch jersey a good while ago and figured I could probably alter the top enough to allow it to be made in a stretch woven.
I think it worked out fine. Its easy to get in and out of and seems to fit very well.

I added a quarter inch to the side seams when I cut it out, plus I laid the front piece half an inch away from the centre fold so that the pleats at the front wouldn't be too small and mean. I have to take in the back necklines on all patterns and for this one, I cut the lower half of the top out with the lower part of the pattern piece (below the armhole) laid on the fold. I then unpinned the lower part and very carefully swung the pattern back so that the back neck was on the fold. This gives a little extra on the underarm of the back, which I also need, especially in a pattern made in a woven. I also lengthened it two inches. I don't think I needed to do that in the end but it does give me a bit more room to tuck it into my waistband and not have it slither out again during the day.
Sewed the entire thing with three eighths seams (a three eighths seam was called for on the pattern for the neckline treatment, but all other seams were designed at five eighths) which gave even more room. I tacked it together at every stage and tried on repeatedly to ensure it would:
a. go over my head.
b. go around my body
c. could be got into and out of with ease and without the aid of a shoe horn/assistant/stoppage of breath.
The armholes were done just as the pattern suggested, turned under and stitched, though mine were overlocked first to ensure they didn't fray.
Its a very simple pattern and easy to construct. I constructed mine slightly differently since the pattern suggested you sew up the shoulders and the side seams then do the neckline treatment. I prefer to be able to get my neckline flat when applying a band, so I sewed my shoulder seams but did the side seams last, after the neckband was attached, understitched, ditch stitched, and pressed.
Hem is overlocked and turned under then stitched at a quarter inch from the edge.
I don't think there is much else that can be said about this top. Its quite a simple one to construct and I did think it worked well in a stretch woven. I don't think I'd try it in anything less drapey or in a non-stretch woven, at least, not without a bit more ease being added to the sides and front.
Just two hems to sew up now, and my SWAP will be done and I can start on the photographs (weather permitting of course).

3 comments:

sdBev said...

It's lovely.

SewRuthie said...

Oh that is very clever indeed. I wonder if I might steal the idea, though I would probably add some sort of sleeves. I like the idea of it being a blouse, and yet not as complicated as blouses tend to be.

Sharon said...

Love the colour and the idea of using the knit pattern.