Jacket Trim experiments - Part One - Ribbon and Leather

On Sunday, I ran some tests using some random wool fabric, and some faux suede, and sewing the faux suede trim on by machine. I didn't like the look of the machine stitching, it was too heavy looking. I don't have photos of this one because I forgot to photograph them before I threw them away. I also found I couldn't get the machine stitching even on both sides. Normally I would get around this by sewing on one side by machine, then hand sewing the other. I can't get away with that here due to the lapel folding back. So I've decided that whatever trim I use, it has to be put on by hand.

So next I tried the leather. I really feel that this would work if I could find a way to make even holes, which I could see, along the strip edges. This would allow me to sew accurately and neatly into the prepunched holes, when attaching the trim. However, I've tried various ways of making the holes and not found one that works for me. The holes heal up, no matter what I use to punch them. I've tried a sharp tracing wheel, the kind with vicious pointy teeth. I also tried running the leather strip through my sewing machine, with it unthreaded. I tried several types of needle for this, including a size 18 jeans needle and a size 16 leather needle, with no success. I was going to buy a wing needle, but on reflection, I think that would make too large a hole and I am making the holes quite near the edges so there would be a risk of tearing over time. I may buy a glovers hand sewing needle since it may be that this would facilitate hand sewing the trim, even without the punched holes. My attempts using an ordinary sharp sewing needle were woefully messy as the leather is very difficult to sew. Three stitches and my finger was ripped open on the needle. No way was I going to be sewing three metres of leather on by hand... I'd need a blood transfusion by half way around. I am not entirely sure the leather is the best choice of trim in any case as its a little heavy for the jacket fabric. Again, no photos. This time because I've not actually been successful in attaching leather to fabric.

And the photo shown below is the straight grain, grosgrain ribbon. As you can see, it does not go around corners well. This was taken after I had steamed it excessively to try and persuade it. However, the garment itself won't take that kind of treatment, and it still looks too messy to my eye, so I abandoned that idea.


Next I tried to cut the edges off the ribbon in the hope that I might be able to persuade the trim to curve more easily. However, that didn't work well either. Even cut with pinking shears, it frayed horribly.

I've also researched knitted trims, and found a very inspirational series of posts on Stitchers Guild which discussed various home made trims, including crocheted trims as suggested by Sharon, and have renewed ideas for things I can try out. I've started a couple of little trial runs with yarns I had on hand, but they aren't ready to be seen yet.

On Saturday, I will take a trip to York I think, on a renewed search for ready made trim, as well as a look around the yarn shops to find some fancy yarn that might work for a crocheted or knitted trim.