Marfy 1444 Mark Two

I cut out Marfy 1444 Mark Two on Sunday, which took almost all day to do because I had to use a single layer layout. The mid panel of the front is shown in the catalogue cut on the bias. I didn’t do that on Mark One because it looked messy. For this version I used a cross grain layout because I thought the bias layout would look awkward. I rather like the look of the cross grain piece now I've attached it.
Sunday evening I cut all the interfacing pieces then got up super early on Monday morning and spent an hour sticking the interfacing to the pieces. This version has much less structure built into it. There is no stabilising interfacing/underlining at all. For the back support, I returned to my previous speed tailoring method and fused the interfacing to each individual piece and that gets sewn into the seam. The whole of the front piece is interfaced, the facing is not. The mid panel on the front was originally interfaced only part way down from the shoulder but it seemed to need a bit more support so last night I added a piece of interfacing to run the remaining length of the piece. This will also support the decorative tab when I get to that stage. The front side panel has interfacing only at the top extending down about three inches below the armhole. I used the same lighter weight woven fusible fluffy interfacing as in the Mark One jacket. The lapel has an extra layer of slightly heavier interfacing, and the roll line is taped. The undercollar is shaped using fusible cotton interlining. All of which is exactly the same as the Mark One.

Yesterday I got the body tacked together and tonight put the sleeves in temporarily to check the fit and it felt much more comfortable, than the Mark One had at the same stage. Which has to be a good sign. I made a small alteration to the front centre panel at the shoulder, letting it out on the lapel side by half an inch. This leaves a very scant seam allowance there, but seems to have improved the fit of the back shoulder and reduced the humped area I struggled so much with on Mark One. I had made the back shoulder seam half an inch longer than the front and then eased it on to provide reach room at the back. However, I don't actually need the reach room on the shoulder seam itself, something I only realised tonight.

This evening I separated the jacket into sections again and began sewing the jacket together permanently. So far I have the upper back section, both upper fronts, and the pocket assembly in the front peplum sewn permanently. The darts in the back peplum are also sewn up.

Now I have to work out how I want my contrast stitching to look. I am currently intending to hand stitch this, but haven't yet managed to produce a test piece I am happy with. I am using quilters Tiger Tape to help me keep my stitches even, which usually works well for me in such circumstances, but for some reason, it isn't working for me here and a new plan might emerge if I can't get a decent finish by hand. I need to get the topstitching sorted before I can go on with the construction as the plastron has to go in next, and it will be installed over some of the seams that are to be stitched.