Jalie 2908 Jeans

These are my TNT jeans pattern and I love this pattern so much.  Getting jeans that fit the way I want them to was one of the key reasons I took up sewing and I spent years searching for that perfect fit, trying endless patterns, drafting from scratch and copying my only pair of well fitting purchased jeans.  I only wore the purchased pair for best to ensure they lasted as long as possible.  I got quite close with that copy, but it wasn't quite right.  And then along came this pattern, and I had my jeans.  I was so thrilled that I made about six pairs one after the other.

The pattern has quite a high rise, or at least, it has a choice of low and high rise.  The high is just a little below my waistline at the sides but crucially is a little higher in the back so I don't feel like I always need to hitch them up at the back. They are slightly lower in the front, which is also really good as its quite flattering and comfortable.  You can make these with a bootcut or straight.  I just fold the bootcut out on the pattern if I want straight, I never bothered to trace two sets of pieces.  These are straight.

I have them traced with five eighths seam allowances and not the three eighths shown on the pattern, plus I have a one inch seam allowance on my outside leg seams.  This gives me fit insurance and allows me to use the pattern with denims that vary in stretchiness.  This is absolutely necessary in the UK where the 3-4% stretch denim required for this can be rarer than rocking horse manure so I usually have to choose between enough stretch but light weight like this pair, or more authentic weight, but much less stretch.  I don't think you could make these with a non-stretch and still sit down in them.  :) 

The waistband is lined in cotton and the pockets likewise.  The wasitband interfacing is iron on cotton woven and its very firm indeed.  As the denim is lightweight, I've interfaced the fly extensions with the same stuff.  Saves you from suffering Wiggly fly syndrome.  The fly went a bit wrong this time.  I have no idea what I did but I didn't have enough fabric to sew in the zipper... so I attached a scrap of denim to the fly extension and recut it to the size I thought it ought to be, and then just carried on inserting the zipper.  It worked fine.  :) 

The zipper is special.  It came from my only well fitting pair of purchased jeans.  Those very well loved jeans died last year, and have donated their very nice Riri zipper to this pair of jeans, which in turn may well donate their zipper to the next pair.  Does anyone else do this sort of thing?  I mean I have this enormous stash of zippers, a large shoe box bulging with them, yet I chose to reuse old jeans zippers until the cotton tape can no longer stand being re-ripped and just collapses. 

Topstitching thread is Gutermann heavy duty (NOT jeans thread).  The jeans thread eventually breaks the bobbin threads underneath causing the topstitching thread to hang off in loops. 

The back pockets are embroidered with a design I got free with a purchased design a few years ago.   The thread is an Oliver Twists cotton variagated.   Lighter than heavy duty Gutermann but heavier than standard Gutermann and I 'm quite pleased with the way the heavier thread makes the design more textured than it otherwise would be.  As its not a heavily stitched design I got away with using this thicker thread.  I wouldn't recommend using it for a more stitch heavy design, I think it would be too much for the machine. 

These are my fifth item for the SWAP.  So far I have two skirts, one shirt, one sweater, and these jeans. 

Next up is a navy silk charmeuse Marfy top, Pattern number 1913, and I'm following Leisa's sew along for the pattern on A Challenging Sew, including adding sleeves.    This one is very much slow sewing of the kind I've not done for a while, with a fair bit of hand sewing involved and possibly a touch of beading if I am feeling brave and creative enough.   So far I've done the pattern alterations, cut it out (that was fun!!! NOT!!) and started on the body.