Sunday, August 8, 2010

Brown trousers


Not the greatest photo, but you get the general idea. This was my first attempt at the Smart Waterproofs idea. The fabric is left over from my gold coloured Marfy trenchcoat and I've used it wrong side out as the gold side is bit too shiny for trousers. It doesn't ease at all, which makes seams a challenge. A challenge I didn't quite rise to as you can see on the side seams.
I started with this pair as I didn't care if they went a bit wrong since the fabric is noisy to wear and not really my favourite shade of brown. Of course they came out fine. I will be quite happy to wear them. I think I should have taken account of the complete lack of any give in the fabric and sewn these with a slightly smaller seam allowance all over just to give a bit of extra ease. They are fine over leggings or on their own, but a bit snug over jeans. The legs are wide enough to allow me to walk very easily, but would be too narrow to use for true activity trousers as you couldn't climb in them without the front of the thighs pulling. Surprisingly, these are OK worn alone even though they aren't lined.
I used my master trouser pattern and added a sew on fly (because I cut these out late at night after two port and lemonades... and forgot to pin the fly extension pattern piece onto the trouser pieces before I cut). Have never done a fly this way before and would have preferred to practice on a less disobedient fabric, but hey, we can't have everything.
The waistband has sew in interfacing since the fabric can't be ironed either. All the seam allowances are held to one side with topstitching which I am hoping will be sufficient to keep them waterproof. If not, I will try some seam sealant.
The second item in the Smart Waterproofs range has had to take up residence in the rubbish bin this afternoon. I thought I'd be clever and have a really smart, Marfy waterproof skirt, and cut out 1908 (the denim one from last week) in cotton cambric backed with rubber. Erm, all was OK until I tried to ease three inches of un-easable rubbery backed cotton into that front curve. I had decided to dispense with the front and back seams and have a side zip. So the top panel was cut in one. The side front panels were attached to the top panel and then I had to fit the entire curved section into the gap. After two hours, all I had to show for my efforts was a very wrinkled seam, two very badly sewn topstitch lines running over the wrinkles, and a pouffy front section that would have made the skirt into a truly excellent walking skirt for someone six months pregnant. As long as I start on version two this week, I am still on track for my self imposed targets of finishing one waterproof per week.
Spent yesterday altering patterns for myself and for mum. I have scaled up Marfy 1908 to fit mum and she made her muslin today and we had got it almost right first time. For her particular figure, neither the contour band or the straight wide waistband were going to work so she has gone for a faced waist. The only tweak needed was a slight sway back alteration.
My alterations were to blouses. I had to redraw the back of my supposedly TNT Marfy blouse pattern as I hadn't got it quite right yet. I used the alterations I learned at my tailoring class. I also altered a different Marfy pattern, the free tunic blouse from this year's catalogue. Because I can't leave things as they are, mine is four inches shorter and has long sleeves and a wider cuff. I drew a cross on the tissue both back and front since I was intending to add waist darts front and back. However, the side seams are quite shaped, so it may be OK as is. We shall see. I have a version cut out in striped shirting which I am hoping to work on this week, alongside the second version of the waterproof skirt.

1 comment:

SewRuthie said...

The trousers look pretty good and will be very useful - which although boring is good in my book. Bummer about the skirt. Maybe you need a simpler pattern? The blouse sounds nice, look forward to seeing that made up later on.