Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Marfy Knit top

From the parade of Style Arc patterns of late you could be forgiven for thinking that Marfy had been abandoned.  Not so .  I am stash busting (mostly) and the Style Arc patterns fit what I am currently trying to sew down, and have the more relaxed vibe I want for working from home.  However  I could never abandon Marfy and this pattern has been patiently waiting its turn for months now...sat on the table paired with various knits.  The muslin was made ages ago so I was able to just cut out and sew this time.

This is Marfy 2415 but I added sleeves, to make it climate appropriate.  The sleeves were from my self drafted top and this is the final version of a muslin I made in January or February this year. Some readers may recall the black top with very bright orange and pink stripes and only one sleeve set into it  :) 

I really love this top, everything about it.  I usually struggle with cross over necklines as they generally gape, but this one doesn't.  The fabric is rather a nice heavy draping poly knit of some sort (remnant from Abhakan Fabrics) and the colour works perfectly with my recently made gorgeous gore skirt and fab new purple shoe boots giving me a one colour outfit that makes me very pleased. 

The top does look a bit short... and it is a bit short... mainly because I am a complete muppet. The top has to be cut out without seam allowances added, except at the hem and the front/back neckline.  I remembered to add as I cut the front/back neckline... forgot to add a hem allowance.  Doh!  Never mind, its not toooo short... just sort of stops a bit shorter than designed.  Its not cropped just not very generous in length... perfectly wearable...   maybe looks slightly shrunken.... I have no problems with it anyway and at least the pointed part at the front won't poke out below any over layer I may choose to wear over it.  :) 

Not the quickest top in my pattern stash it has to be said.  My lack of spatial awareness has me scratching my head with confusion when faced with the two fronts and how to get them together neatly at the point.  I did it, but not without a lot of muttering and mumbling and the cutting of a second front as I was convinced I had cut one of them the wrong way up and was going to end up with one right side out and one wrong side out.  I hadn't... and I didn't... but it wasn't my finest hour. 
I'm still not sure how the back hem is supposed to be dealt with.  The front hem is done quite early in the proceedings so that the point is formed neatly and correctly.  Which leaves a fully hemmed and finished front, and a non-hemmed back that, the way I constructed it, had then to be put together at the side seams.  I hemmed my back before I put the back and front together at the side seams then pulled the overlocked tail up through the stitches to sort of draw the hems to the same level at the side seam.  I think this may be a pattern designed for a stretch woven, as it has a side zipper marked on the pattern, but I made it in a knit and overlocked it together (mostly). 

The only thing that went a bit wrong was the gathering in the shoulder yokes... my overlocker in its wisdom decided they were wrinkles that should be eliminated and flattened them out for me... which was very nice of it wasn't it?  Pity it doesn't do that with non-intentional wrinkles really.... but it takes pleasure in highlighting those of course.  :) 


1 comment: