Marfy 1666 - aka the trousers of many pieces

Sixteen pieces to be precise. Apart from the pocket pieces and the inside of the waistband, the entire pattern is a single layer layout due to the asymmetric design. I did take a photo of the catalogue drawing. However, Blogger has taken a violent dislike to it and refuses to host it for some reason. One more petty annoyance to add to the recurring one which puts huge spaces between my paragraphs for no discernable reason.

So, in the absence of a picture, I will attempt an explanation.

These trousers have a split in the lower front leg (which mine won't have... its winter... in Yorkshire... its not gonna happen), and an assymetric waistband with two welt pockets in. The front pocket has a little triangular tab, the back welt pocket has a flap. The trousers close with four buttons on the right front, at the top of the centre leg seam. The waistband also closes with a buckle fastening. There is also a curved pocket on the right side. The assymetric waistband comes to a point over the right hip and is narrower over the left hip. The back legs are in one piece, without seams, but due to the angled waistband, which continues across the back, there are left and right leg pieces. Interestingly, one leg has a dart, the other does not, presumably the dart on the right side is incorporated into the waistband somehow. I love details as you know, and this pattern has them in spades. I think its fabulous, but am aware that for others its the pattern equivalent of an overdecorated christmas tree.

And here is a shot of all the pattern pieces laid out and pinned together roughly so I can get a clearer idea of how they are supposed to go together, and use it to refer to when construction begins.

And here is the front of the trousers compared to my professionally fitted master trouser draft. As the master draft was based on a Marfy pattern, its not much of a surprise to note that the two are reasonably close. I lined these up, taking care to keep the grain lines parallel, and concentrated on the fit at the trunk since I can tweak the leg width later if I need to. The master pattern is on top, and its clear that the crotch needed scooping out and that is the only alteration I've made at the tissue stage. Although not clear on the photo, there will also be a need for width adjustment at the waist and hips, but I will do that when I fit the muslin so I can accurately gauge comfort and ease.

I am guessing the side seams will need taking in by about half to three quarters of an inch each side, though some of that might be taken at the back centre seam so that the alteration is more evenly spaced.

Although there looks to be a lot going on with these trousers (and there is of course), I think it is going to be possible to construct them in such a way that width alterations can be fairly simply achieved. I saw an article in Threads about attaching waistbands in such a way that future alteration for shape changes can be easily achieved, and I think this should prove possible everywhere except the centre front seam. As I am developing a little bit of a belly, it wouldn't seem sensible to alter them there anyway.

I have the muslin cut and marked, but then got distracted by the need for PJ's.