Sunday, August 19, 2012

Finished

Amazingly I managed to finish two things.  The green cardigan and the dress I cut out about a month ago and never got around to sewing.

First the cardigan.  Rather disappointed with the fit.   The deep ribbed hem is supposed to start above my waist(two or three inches higher than it is here) and fit neatly and tightly around the waist, pinching in to give an hourglass effect.   The sleeves are supposed to be the same length as my arms, and the buttons aren't supposed to gape like that.  It wasn't too bad until I washed and blocked it, then it grew like Topsy.   I think I read somewhere that superwash yarns (which this one is) will grow with blocking but a stint in the tumble drier will shrink them back up again.  However, I've not dared try it out yet. 

The yarn was lovely to knit with and I like the subtlety of the variation of colours in the yarn.  I didn't alternate skeins the way you are supposed to with hand dyed yarns, and you can't tell.  Though of course, Posh Yarn isn't just any old hand dye.  I wasn't sure about the colour initially, its not my usual colour at all, but it seems to work OK with my skin tone and I have several garments to wear with the cardigan so it will probably get plenty of wear, though it will obviously get rather more wear if I can figure out how to smallify it just a touch.

And next, the dress.  Again, not perfect.  But certainly I think I've got this pattern 95% perfected and I think its going to be wearable.  This version is slightly too tight in the hips, that's why the back view has that delightful wrinkle at the waist.   This could be the pattern, or it might be inaccurate cutting and piecing.  The fabric was not the most obedient and the overlock finish curled up a bit, which might have inadvertently led to inaccurate seam allowances being sewn. 
The facings didn't go in very easily, but they are in and they don't peek out for publicity, which I often have issues with.

I need to scoop out the armholes just a tad more at the front for comfort.  Though I can wear this as it is, it would be better with a touch more room.  When I was trying this on I started to wonder whether the facings themselves might not be partly to blame for my problems with uncomfortable sleeveless armholes.  The facing/staystitching/seam allowance/understitching all add up to quite a structured, hard-edged finish at the armhole.  I suddenly wondered whether all that bulk/structure was what was causing the discomfort because there is absolutely no give in the fabric at all.  On the next page of my sewing manual, after the instructions I was following for my facing application, were instructions for making a bias strip facing for the armholes.  I don't think I've ever used that method but it seems that it might be softer and therefore less likely to cause discomfort in wear.  So for the next version of this dress pattern, I shall try that finish for the armholes and sew the whole dress with half inch seam allowances which will add a bit of extra ease to the dress all around.   The fabric is from Abhakan Fabrics in Preston, from the bargain bin.  I bought five small pieces of the same fabric and the pattern actually goes the other way, I cut across the width (hem and top to the selvages).    I have a piece left which is just big enough to make a child's dress or perhaps a summer skirt if carefully cut. 

 I hadn't had chance to step away from it until I saw the photos and I'm really pleased with the way the floral pattern bands have fallen above and below the bust, and just below the waist in that way.  Although obviously I made efforts to match the pattern, the fabric width had dictated where on the fabric I could place my pieces to get the length in and I hadn't consciously set out to get this effect, though had I set out for any sort of an effect, this is the one I would have chosen. 

Next on the list of things to get finished: turquoise baby socks, and the ends of my best mate's laceweight scarf. 

Also coming up soon, hopefully some new sewing projects.  I think my sewing mojo is on its way back to me.... but I don't want to startle it and make it run away so when it tells me what is going to be made next, I'll follow its suggestion. 


3 comments:

Judith said...

Oh, that poor cardigan! I have also just finished the back of a cardigan and it is way longer than expected, so now contemplating undoing it part way. Only problem is the pattern will be interrupted...
Love the dress! Try the bias strips instead of the facings and you might be pleasantly surprised. They are easy to do, and take away that stiff feeling you have. Looking forward to seeing the next dress now that mojo is back...

becki-c said...

Love the dress the fit is fabulous, and your use of the print is just perfect. I agree with Judith about using the bias strips. I have become quite addicted to them and only use the facing if I need the extra body.
I have been wondering how your dress was coming, I am so glad you didn't give up!

SewRuthie said...

I think its worth trying the tumble drier, they have unintentionally shrunk things for me quite effectively. The dress is great and I do think self fabric bias strips are worth trying. I have two sleeveless dresses - one is lined with very light weight fabric, the other just overlocked, turned and stitched.