Marfy 1666 - Success at last

On the second attempt, I think I have the fit sorted on these trousers. It seems that it was the grain line that was incorrect as they appear to be hanging well now. However, as can be seen in the photos, its a bit more difficult than I expected to get the button closure to sit completely flat. I am wondering whether using shank style buttons would allow the buttons and buttonholes enough play to let the closure lie flat? What do you think?

Also, the pocket lining is peeking slightly, and again, the pocket isn't ultra flat. I do find this pocket style a bit difficult to get exactly correct and hope that practice will make perfect on this. I did stay the pocket edge with Vilene iron on edge tape but perhaps I should have shortened the tape a little when I applied it so that it drew the pocket edge up a little (using the same method as when applying a shortened stay tape to a lapel break line).

This pair are lined with bemberg lining. I was a bit worried about how I was going to actually install the lining but it turned out to be quite easy. However, here is a tip; cut them with the pattern pieces wrong way up on the fabric if your lining has a definite right and wrong side since they are assymetric and if you don't do it this way, you will end up with lining legs that won't fit the trousers. The first leg was cut wrong, though the bemberg is plain and its wrong side isn't evident, so I just sewed it up the other way around (after I'd unpicked the first attempt of course).

I sewed the lining legs separately, then sewed the crotch seam. Because I chose to attach the yoke sections as part of the leg units so that I could have alterable side seams, I felt the neatest way to install the lining was to tack the lining to the seam allowances by hand, then fold the inner yoke into place, pin carefully and hand prick stitch through all layers, thus attaching the whole thing together reasonably neatly. Though it took quite a while to do it by hand, I felt the end result was worth the effort as I had much more control over the whole process. The lining was also sewn down to the button opening by hand as well. I did this after I'd put on the buttons for the closure so that I could cover the back of the button sewing with the lining.

Button holes were painted with fray stop before they were cut open. Button sewing and hemming was also done by hand.

I am going to wear these to work tomorrow with brown suede and crocodile heeled brogue style shoes, a cream sweater, and a brown linen jeans style jacket. If the trousers are comfy all day, then this pattern will probably be used in my SWAP.